Modulation of skin androgenesis and sebum production by dermocosmetic formulation

Author: Samara Eberlin

Published at: March 01, 2020

Elisete Isabel Crocco, Evellin Barbosa Bonifácio, Gustavo Facchini, Gustavo Henrique da Silva, Michelle Sabrina da Silva, Ana Lucia Alves Tabarini Pinheiro, Paula Voltarelli Franco Avelar, Samara Eberlin
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020), 00:1-6.
DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13503

Excessive androgenesis in the skin promotes sebaceous hyperproduction which is the onset of acne vulgaris pathogenesis. Free fatty acids and lipids accumulation in the glandular infundibulum culminates in microbiota imbalance, triggering inflammatory response and follicular hyperkeratinization. The purpose of this work was to present an alternative cosmetic treatment for acne skin care, focusing on the prevention of sebaceous gland dysregulation. Insulin-stimulated human sebocytes were treated with non-cytotoxic concentrations of a DTRW cosmetic formulation. After 6 days of incubation, cell lysates were collected for testosterone, 5α-reductase and dihydrotestosterone (DHT) quantitation. In parallel, cells were stained with Oil Red O to measure sebum production. Human sebocytes were incubated with insulin to mimic a seborrheic microenvironment with overproduction of intracellular lipids and fatty acids. Concomitant incubation of cell cultures with DRTW was able to promote a 52.97% reduction in intracellular lipid content. The anti-androgenic properties of DRTW had been proved by the reductions of testosterone (−59.90%), 5α-reductase (−59.34%) and DHT (−55.98%) levels in sebocyte cultures also stimulated with insulin. The results indicate a promising action of DRTW cosmetic formulation in preventing the development of acne lesions by mechanisms involving the modulation of cutaneous androgenesis and consequently the control of sebum overproduction, considered one of the leading causes of acne.