Novel complex of cosmetic ingredients with promising action in preventing hair loss and follicular aging through mechanism involving enrichment of WNT/signaling, mitochondrial activity and stem cells maintenance.

Author: Samara Eberlin

Published at: November 13, 2020

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2020
DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13815
Mamy Honda Igarashi, Sheila Gomes da Silva, Maurizio Mercuri, Flávia Macedo de Oliviera Neves Zuardi, Gustavo Facchini, Gustavo Henrique da Silva, Ana Lúcia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, Samara Eberlin.

Mechanisms involved in hair metabolism are diverse and the availability of ingredients that normalize dysfunctions or mitigate the effects of extrinsic stress suffered daily are greatly desired by consumers to improve the aesthetic appearance of hair. In this work, we carried out a preclinical exploratory approach to evaluate the effects of a complex of nanoencapsulated active ingredients (AcPi), as well as a cosmetic formulation containing AcPi (ShPi and HtPi) in mechanisms involving hair loss and follicular aging. Human hair follicle dermal papilla cells and human scalp culture were treated with AcPi, ShPi or HtPi and stimulated with UV radiation or testosterone for further measurement of mitochondrial biogenesis, reactive oxygen species (ROS), B-catenin, dyhidrotestosterone (DHT), collagen XVIIa1 (COL17A1) and cutaneous permeation. Our results demonstrated that AcPi prevents oxidative stress and balances mitochondrial activity disturbed by exposure to UV radiation. AcPi also promoted an enrichment of WNT/B-catenin signaling pathway, stimulating hair growth and lengthening the anagen phase of hair cycle. ShPi and HtPi were able to prevent hair aging, minimizing the excessive degradation of COL17A1 in hair follicle exposed to UV radiation, in addition to controlling androgenic metabolism by reducing DHT production. The integral effects of AcPi have not been completely elucidated, however, these results, associated with clinical evidences, allow us to infer that this ingredient prevents follicular aging, miniaturization and consequently hair loss by mechanisms involving energetic homeostasis maintenance, antioxidant and anti-androgenic actions.