Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) cake fermentation: A new, sustainable technology for advanced skin and scalp care ingredients.

Author: James V. Gruber, Amber Schwartz, Nicole Terpak, Robert Holtz, Ana Lucia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, Mayara Miranda Ferreira, Viviane Cristina Albarici, Juliana Rodrigues Pinto

Published at: September 04, 2026

https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70138

Objective
Simmondsia chinensis is a well-known commercially popular plant from which jojoba oil is extracted. Jojoba cake is a sustainably produced, intractable by-product of the jojoba seed oil extraction currently used principally as a fertilizer or burned as fuel. Fermentation work conducted with various microorganisms, including Lactobacillus plantarum, Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Streptococcus thermophilus, sustainably grown on aqueous jojoba cake fermented the cake, liberating jojoba-based amino acids, peptides and proteins. The ferments have been examined chemically and via in vitro cell and tissue studies to develop new skin and scalp care targeted ingredients.

Methods
The jojoba cake contained nutrients (proteins, sugars and lipids) that self-sustain aqueous bacterial fermentation. The ferments were examined on 3D tissue models in vitro via human genomic microarrays. A ferment produced by Lactobacillus plantarum was further tested in vitro using ELISA protein assays on skin cell cultures. A 56-day clinical study on 46 individuals examined the influence of 1.0% of the Lactobacillus ferment on collagen expression using Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (DRS).

Results
Gene responses were measured on 244+ genes known to have skin functions. It was found that the Lactobacillus ferment showed the greatest upregulation of skin-associated genes, and three highly upregulated proteins were examined more closely in vitro using ELISA protein assays: collagen-1A1, protocadherin-18 and opioid growth factor receptor. Each protein was upregulated in a dose-dependent fashion. The collagen analysis by DRS demonstrated a statistically significant increase in collagen fluorescence on Day 28 and Day 56 compared to baseline and placebo cream. Further mapping of the collagen fluorescence was done on the individuals using the active formulation at Days 0, 28 and 56.

Conclusion
Jojoba cake presents a new source of sustainably grown biomass, but the cake is not suitable for topical applications. Fermentation produces components more suitable for topical care. In vitro studies demonstrated upregulation of three skin proteins associated with healing skin. Further studies also employed a newly emerging spectroscopic technique to measure collagen fluorescence in the skin in vivo, the results supporting in vitro work indicating the ferment made with Lactobacillus was able to stimulate collagen synthesis in the skin.